It’s nestled in Fionnay, Switzerland, amid other gnarly climbs like Raboutou’s own. On February 26, 63-year-old Ken Nichols made his 10,000th ascent of the traditional route Dol Guldur (5. As previously mentioned, Burden of Dreams is the groundbreaking climb that made V17 bouldering a reality. Écoutez EP 142: Aidan Roberts — Training For Alphane V17, The Power Of Replicas, And Embracing Your Style et 237 plus d'épisodes de The Nugget Climbing Podcast. Everyone said the same thing about Dreamtime 22 years ago but it's still a benchmarkIn the first, we get some fun send footage from Bosi’s fall 2022 Swiss trip, in which he climbed Alphane (V17) and Forgotten Gem (V15), and flashed the ultra-classic Vecchio Leone (V13). The world’s third V17 boulder problem now has a second graduate, with the young Brit calling his send an “amazing. If confirmed, it will become the fourth 9A in the world alongside Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams, Daniel Woods' Return of the. Check out this exclusive interview with the man with the strongest fingers in the business! Nice one Will!He believes the grade is lower-end V16, harder than his recent send of Forgotten Gem V15 but easier than Honey Badger V16 or Alphane V17. don't know the actual year but that's the video that got Jorgeson's attention. Earlier this month, he made the coveted second ascent of Burden of. The boulder sits left of Alphane Moon, a classic V11 , and was discovered by Dave Graham. Earlier this month, Bosi threw down three hard problems in Germany in a single session—a V14 flash, a V14 redpoint, and a V11 flash. “In terms of a grade, I personally felt that Honey Badger (V16) was more of a. Rumoured to have been climbed long before this recent announcement, Raboutou continues to show himself as a leader in outdoor boulder. Over the past twelve months, he has repeated Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17, Nalle Hukkataival’s Burden of Dreams V17, and Jimmy Webb’s Ephyra V16. If you are not familiar with. A post shared by Aidan Roberts (@aidan. Will Bosi, a 23-year-old from Edinburgh, nabbed the second repeat of “Alphane” in Ticino, Switzerland, this week. He also put up a V16 of his own, Honey Badger in the U. This year however, she took quite a slump and barely made three. However, if all four proposed V17 problems are truly V17, then six climbers have climbed V17: Raboutou, Nalle Hukkataival, Daniel Woods, Will. Snippets are a new way to share audio!I've seen a few places disregard Soudain Seul as a possible 9A, stating Alphane as the 3rd (after BOD and ROTSW). 15b’s of his own in Italy, The Lonely. Soutenez la chaîne en visitant le shop d'EpicTV : avons filmé cette. The problem was established by Shawn Raboutou in spring 2022 and was given the proposed grade of V17. Shawn Raboutou is the only boulderer in the world right now with 2 9A/V17 ascents under his belt. This weekend Ryohei Kameyama, from Japan, made the second ascent of No Kpote Only in Fontainebleau, France. There are certainly climbers that have done more V17 boulders if that is the benchmark of "strongest". . 11/1/10 - The Travel Channel has picked up groundbreaking documentary series "First Ascent" for U. S. "1. 2-3 nights a week, I hangdog at the gym, maybe take some whippers, do a little flailing, and then drink beer. For example if alphane was easier than burden, then it's a decision to be made if both are v17, or are they v16&17 or v17&18. 4. On Wednesday, April 12, Will Bosi claimed the second ascent of Nalle Hukkataival’s Burden of Dream, V17, calling it a huge step up from any other problem he’s done. Alphane breaks down into a V14 followed by a V15, or just nine really hard moves in a row, says Raboutou. 15b) graded sport climbing route (King Capella in 2021), and by 2023, was one of only a small group of climbers in the world to. I think this shows the strength of modern boulderers and the rarity of V17 rock. m. They're effectively a Free-to-Play option. While in the U. Will is now one of just three climbers in the world who have climbed two. Bosi has wracked up a mind-boggling ticklist over the past year, including three V14s flashes, the first ascent of Honey Badger (V16), and the third ascent of Shawn Raboutou's Alphane (V17). Aaron Pardy November 16, 2022. On March 30, Daniel Woods topped out a new sit start to Sleepwalker (V16) in Black Velvet Canyon, Nevada. The North Face team returns to Switzerland with the goal to establish cutting edge first ascents. During my Swiss trip for the first RedBull Dual Ascent competition on the Verzasca dam, I had the opportunity to explore the astonishing bouldering area of C. Instead, he worked the climb at Lattice Training’s. In 2022 alone, he climbed eleven V14’s, twelve V15’s, two V16’s, and one V17. Will has confirmed the grade at 9A/V17. Burden of Dreams has not seen a second ascent. After Shawn Raboutou's 🇺🇸 FA on Alphane back in April last year, Will Bosi is now the third person to ever send the boulder. Last week, one of our TNF Athletes Shawn Raboutou announced a first ascent of “Alphane” in Switzerland, which may become the world’s third V17 boulder ever. After Spending 10 days on the replica in the Lattice Training Center, and 3 weeks projecting in Lappnor Finland, Will Bosi sent Burden of Dreams on April. Alphane. Shawn was asked about it and basically said that while he's not really keeping it secret, he just doesn't like to blab about his ascents. We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed. Climbs at the bleeding edge will always be newsworthy—ascents like Silence (5. 107K views 1 month ago. Follow-Up: Aidan Roberts — Sending Alphane, Training for V18 Projects, and Listener Q&A. Raboutou is the first climber in the world to climb two V17’s. This year, Shawn Raboutou established Alphane and Megatron and graded them both V17 – read more about them here. There are levels that are lower/easier. Will Bosi’s has made the first ascent of Wild South V15 at Raven Tor in U. Stream ad-free with Amazon Music Unlimited on mobile, desktop, and tablet. K. Will Bosi on what is considered the hardest boulder in the world – Burden of Dreams (V17) ©Diego Borello. This was shortly after his send of Alphane. That’s simply because the route has been known about and attempted for years. Below that, it really depends if there is a compelling story behind the ascent. British climber Will Bosi has made the second repeat of Alphane (f9A), proposed to be the world's fourth Font 9A boulder. Two V17 climbers are in Finland projecting Burden of Dreams V17 (9A). He also had a very relatable. Nico Pelorson, has taken a break from projecting Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane (V17) to climb Guiliano Cameroni’s Squalo Bianco (V14) and Dave Graham’s elusive classic From Dirt Grows the Flowers (V15). EP 151: Anna Hazelnutt — Toe Training for the World’s Hardest Slabs, and Giving Others Permission to Be Real. EP 166: Will Bosi — Sending ‘Burden of Dreams’ V17, Dream Projects,. This article originally appeared on Climbing. CWIF 2023, Bosi on Burden, and Hazelnutt Slab . Watch Will Bosi Climb Alphane (V17) and Chat About His Training Interview: How Ben Hanna Became the Athlete He Wanted to Be Bubble Wrap: Woods' FA of Gym ProblemAlphane (V17) 2nd Ascent - Is Burden of Dreams Next? | Lattice Newsletter, October 2022 Lattice Training sent this email to their subscribers on October 28, 2022 . According to Bosi, Terranova has “some of the worst crimps and pinches [he’s] used,” which says a lot for someone who repeated both Burden of Dreams V17 and Alphane V17. The second video, Bosi and his coach, Lattice founder Tom Randall, sit down to chat about Will Bosi’s training development and present tactics. EP 184: Nic. On July 14 Mat Wright made the first ascent of Magical Thinking, a hard and terribly runout single pitch at Pavey Ark, in the U. One of the world’s most prolific downgraders, Nico Pelorson, has taken a break from projecting Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane (V17) to climb Guiliano Cameroni’s Squalo Bianco (V14) and Dave Graham’s elusive classic From Dirt Grows the Flowers (V15). The Spot Boulder, Boulder, Colo. The month prior, he ticked the world’s hardest bouldering grade with his repeat of Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17. “Having achieved the first ascent of Burden of Dreams marks a new level in my climbing,” Hukkataival wrote on his Instagram. ’. Download the app . Read the full story here, and watch his ascent in the video above. Repeated just a few weeks ago by Aidan Roberts, the boulder just might be the sixth in the world to carry the V17 grade. . He has graduate degrees in chemistry and physics and is currently. She initially proposed V15 for this low variation but subsequent ascensionists moved the grade down to V14, which Bertone agreed with. 11) at Traprock in Connecticut. Instead, he FAd Alphane Moon (V11). On November 6, Will Bosi made the second ascent of the boulder problem Nova at Holstejn crag in the Moravsky Kras area of Czechia. This afternoon, Raboutou. Will Bosi, 23, from Edinburgh has claimed the third ascent of Alphane in Ticino, Switzerland. The second video, Bosi and his coach, Lattice founder Tom Randall, sit down to chat about Will Bosi's training development and present tactics. Not a rumor anymore, Jimmy confirmed that Shawn has 2 V17 FAs at global climbing day, during the premiere of this video. American climber Shawn Raboutou made a historic first ascent of Alphane (V17), in Chironico, Switzerland, back in April. Nick Brown UKC. ago. French minimalist "Barefoot Charles" Albert has announced what he believes is his hardest send to date, L'Ombre du Voyageur (The Traveler's Shadow), proposing a grade of 9A/V17. Aidan Roberts has repeated Alphane (Font 9A) at Chironico, in Ticino, Switzerland. In 2022 alone, he climbed eleven V14’s, twelve V15’s, two V16’s, and one V17. Bosi is one of only two climbers in the. Roberts has been on a tear over the past year, with a repeat of Alphane V17, the first ascent of Isles of Wonder SS V16 (below) and a recent first ascent of a V15 – read more about it here. Dive into an in-depth conversation covering topics including Will’s experience with replica training, the impact of climbing Alphane (V17/9A) on his performance, and his thoughts on live streaming his climbing efforts. 1. “Usually, when I go out with fellow guides or. Pictures and analysis included. The world’s third V17 boulder problem has now seen two repeats since Shawn Raboutou first established the line. Simon Lorenzi On Making the 4th Ascent of “Alphane” He spent 20+ days on the climb and says "Alphane". In 2022, he repeated Adam Ondra’s Move 5. The story of Simon Lorenzi on Alphane 9A/V17. He had an incredible 2022 season, establishing V16’s F*ck the System and Story of 3 Worlds, and V17’s Alphane and Megatron. aw sheet here we go againYou voted, you get it. Shawn Raboutou Does First Ascent of “Alphane” (V17) Delaney Miller. Gripped April 29, 2023. Will sticks the last move of Burden of Dreams 9A. A documentary about Nalle Hukkataival’s four-year journey to establish the hardest boulder problem in the world, Burden of Dreams (9A/V17). Be part of the community. Categories: Video Tags: News. We caught up with Aidan to chat about it. Alphane (V17) Alphane is a testament to Graham’s vision and perseverance. It is now the second to have been repeated with Soudain Seul having had three ascents in total. For example if alphane was easier than burden, then it's a decision to be made if both are v17, or are they v16&17 or v17&18. Last month, he threw down three hard problems in Germany in a single session—a V14 flash, a V14 redpoint, and a V11 flash. Matt Fultz has made the second ascent of the stunning Vecchio Leone Sit (8C+/V16) in Brione, Switzerland. In the opening scene he. K. In December, he redpointed V15 and flashed V13/14 in a single day. Aaron Pardy November 16, 2022. How he sent the route has given us a modern template for what top-level climbing may become. UKC News 14 Apr 2023. Raboutou is the first climber in the world to climb two V17’s. " - Climbing MagazineHe was the first to repeat Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17, and he’s put up numerous V16 first ascents, including the U. Listen anywhere. Raised with the state’s minimalist ethic, Gaines knows well the challenges of bolting and, running his guide service ( verticaladventures. Like, finding a crimp line that goes at V17 is ridiculous, because a couple degrees of overhang or literal fractions of a millimeter of extra pad space makes or breaks the whole line. Last Friday, he finally posted about making the first. Steven Potter Published Jun 5, 2023. Dwelling » Climbing » Will Bosi Claims Third Ascent of ‘Alphane’ (V17), Evades Grade Query The world’s third V17 boulder drawback has now seen two repeats since Shawn Raboutou first established the road in August 2022. In 2022 alone, Bosi climbed eleven V14’s, twelve V15’s, two V16’s, and one V17. In 2022 alone, Bosi climbed. About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features NFL Sunday Ticket Press Copyright. In 2021, he made the first ascent of King Capella (9b/5. Simon Lorenzi has repeated Alphane. Only three V17 problems. Hestal. Trying hard is more the consequence of me doing everything else perfectly: of staying calm, clear minded, and executing the moves. The story of Simon Lorenzi on Alphane 9A/V17. 19, top American boulderer Shawn Raboutou announced his ascent of what could become the world’s third V17. 10/7/11 - Another ascent of Dai Koyamada's The Wheel of Life in the Hollow Mountain Cave, Grampians, Australia, has flown under the radar for about a week. Last Friday, he finally posted about making the first ascent of Alphane, in Chironico, Switzerland, confirming that he has indeed climbed the world’s hardest bouldering grade. The boulder sits left of Alphane Moon, a classic V11 , and was discovered by Dave Graham. Raboutou himself disclosed nothing about the climb in the post — other than the name and. This route might well have the best claim to V17 of recent proposals. Ghisolfi is a sport climbing wizard. The V-scale is the most widely used scale in North America. Dans la vidéo mise-en-line il y a deux. November 2, 2022 at 3:11 PM · 3 min read. Climbers Ski Baffin’s Epic Polar Star Couloir Gripped November 16, 2023. In October, Bosi also repeated Alphane V17. Hoping around 6' tall. EP 185: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis — All Things Dynos, Why Boulderers Should Train Their Legs, and How to Enjoy Your Climbing. Alphane had two quick repeats, full story here. We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed his climbing style, addressing finger weaknesses, training using replicas, his goal-setting philosophy, plans. He named the issue Burden of Desires and assigned it a problem of V17 (9A), making it the primary downside on the planet on the grade. Last month, he threw down three hard problems in Germany in a single session—a V14 flash, a V14 redpoint, and a V11 flash. Becoming the first 9A/V17 in Switzerland and only the third in the world, Alphane is the latest and greatest example of Rabatou's talents, clearing defining him as one of the very best bouldererA 70m is enough with the stretch. Again in 2016, Nalle Hukkataival made the primary ascent of the “Lappnor Mission” in Finland. EP 173: Louis Parkinson — How to Break Down Dynamic. Shawn Raboutou—Two V17's in a Year Shawn Raboutou, a 24-year-old boulderer from Boulder, CO, climbed Alphane (V17) and Megatron (V17), the highest V grade in the world. m. Shawn Raboutou is absolutely on fire right now. This is just two athletes though. Get 10% off Petzl gear in the EpicTV shop with the code ICEICE10: this week's News Show Alphane 9A gets ANOTHER ascent. EP 167: Alex Honnold — Epic Solos That Nobody Heard About, Near Misses, and Sh*tting His Pants. , Ghisolfi also spent a day working the moves on the now famous Burden of Dreams V17 replica with Bosi. "In total he spent 24 days working the problem and this is the longest Bosi has spent on a single boulder problem - by comparison, Alphane at Chironico in Switzerland took 12. Last Wednesday, Allison Vest finished off a nemesis project in Joe's Valley: Pagan Poetry Low (V13). He had an incredible 2022 season, establishing V16’s F*ck the System and Story of 3 Worlds, and V17’s Alphane and Megatron. The V17 climber puts down one of his oldest projects. We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed his climbing style, addressing finger weaknesses, training using replicas, his goal-setting philosophy, plans to train for Burden of Dreams V17, considering our environmental impact as climbers, and much more. . 22. Alphane breaks down into a V14 followed by a V15, or just nine really hard moves in a row, says Raboutou. “My Uncut send footage of potentially my longest boulder project,” Bosi said, “adding a low start to Wild West V13. ’s first two of the grade: Superpowers and Isles of Wonder Sit. ℗© 2023 Hestal. On June 8, Will Bosi has made the first repeat of Ultra Instinct V15 (8C) in Forest Rock in the U. Shawn aime bien faire sa petite affaire sans avoir à poster ses réalisations sur Instagram. Aiden Roberts talked about this difference on a recent. . . K. Last month the British climber Will Bosi joined an elite club that includes just Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, Alex Megos, Stefano Ghisolfi, Jakob Schubert, and now himself—he is the sixth person ever to climb 9b+ [5. Will Bosi, 23, from Edinburgh, has claimed the third ascent of Alphane in Ticino, Switzerland. 1. ’s first two V16’s: Superpowers and Isles of. Watch the fourth ascent of Alphane, which was first climbed in spring 2022 by Shawn Raboutou. ”Matt Fultz Nabs First Repeat of Vecchio Leone Sit (V16). Shawn on Megatron V17 – Photo from Shawn Raboutou’s Instagram. The home of Climbing on reddit. . While Raboutou was willing to comment on Alphane, he wasn’t ready to disclose what else he’s done that we should know about. What an incredible journey! Thanks a lot for the support 🙏🏼 I’ll comment more soon 😁. Download the app . Located in a remote foothills of the Caucasus Mountains, not far from Mount Elbrus, the area. You can watch his and Bertone’s. In this week's Ticklist, Rob Greenwood talks us through Shawn Raboutou's new Font 9A/V17 in Chironico, Switzerland, a problem that has been kept quiet for th. Will Bosi and Aidan have both previously climbed Font 8C+ but Aidan's repeat of Alphane is. It was the last time anyone has climbed the hard problem, and a new film featuring Lorenzi’s send was just released by Mellow. Natalie Berry UKC. "One of the best long-form interview podcasts in the outdoor space. It has since seen two repeats , one by Aidan Roberts , who got the first repeat later in the year in October and then by Scot Will Bosi in November of the same year. Aidan Roberts. 15d), and Alphane (V17). Remember when Aidan sent Alphane and became the second person to send this infamous V17? Tom Randall managed to sit down with Aidan Roberts fresh off Alphane (9A/V17) to find out more about what went into this historic send! This proves to be a rather inspirational. 15c] with his FA of King Capella in Siurana, Spain. In October last year, he repeated Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17. Writing on his Instagram, Aidan said: 'This one was a pretty amazing experience to live. Will Bosi claims the third ascent of Alphane. Alphane has become the most repeated V17 boulder in the world (excluding Soudain Seul and No Kpote Only since grades are disputed). Shawn sent Alphane in April 2022 (but didn’t announce it until August 2022) after 25 sessions spanning over a few months. (Photo/The Spot Boulder) When The Spot — now known as The Spot Boulder, part of a chain of four Colorado gyms — opened in 2002, it was one of the first. The latter took him three days of effort. ’s Peak District. Have a Multitool or EDC Question? Leave a comment and I may make a video on it!Website: Shop: h. There’s Big Drama at the Top of Mount Everest. After American climber Sean Raboutou, 24, publicly announced his send of Alphane V17 in August, rumours swirled that he had actually sent another V17 as well. Gripped December 16, 2022. Will Bosi has made the first repeat of Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams 9A, the world's first 9A boulder in Lappnor, east of Helsinki, Finland. Will Bosi, a 23-year-old from Edinburgh, nabbed the second repeat of “Alphane” in Ticino, Switzerland, this week. Alphane 9A/V17 | Will Bosi. On November 19, 2022, Shawn Raboutou made the First Ascent of a V16 boulder named ‘ Megatron ‘. Dreams was the first proposed V17 after the Finnish climber took the problem down in September 2016, following over 4,000 attempts and six seasons. 11. ”. By Andrew McLemore via GearJunkie, 10/21/2022. Keen readers of Climbing will remember my frequent coverage of another route at Pavey Ark, Lexicon (E11 7a/5. No Kpote Only is the. "I personally felt that 'Honey Badger' (V16) was more of a challenge for me. Raboutou claimed the first ascent of “Megatron,” V17, his most recent mega-hard Colorado project. ago. This article originally appeared onPay attention to how much you’re cutting feet as you get tired. The 21-year-old talked with Tom Randall about the problem and the process – you can listen to. Check out this video of the 24-year-old American climbing “Alphane” outside ChironicoOwen Clarke. Roberts, 24, has accumulated an impressive list of hard bouldering ticks. 1 SONG • 5 MINUTES • OCT 20 2023. Will has shared some details of his experience on the boulder, and some initial thoughts on the grade. Aidan Roberts – Alphane (V17) 2nd ascent and Burden of Dreams strategies. “Alphane” is the world’s third V17/9A boulder problem, according to American boulderer Shawn Raboutou. Cody Townsend and team visited Baffin Island in May to ski the epic line. It's. The rig joins the ranks aside Nalle. Listen to EP 142: Aidan Roberts — Training For Alphane V17, The Power Of Replicas, And Embracing Your Style and 264 more episodes by The Nugget Climbing Podcast. About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features NFL Sunday Ticket Press Copyright. Yes, V17 is currently the hardest boulder grade. . British climber, Will Bosi, continues his jaw-dropping year of hard bouldering sends with his ascent of Ephyra V16. Before today, that number was only two. In a bouldering video released last August, local pro climber, Shawn Raboutou, is featured making the first ascent of Alphane (V17), one of the world’s hardest problems. Bosi is one of only two climbers in the. Simon Lorenzi on Alphane ©Gilles Charlier When speaking about Alphane, Giuliano Cameroni commented on the diversity of the moves, describing the boulder as being simultaneously extremely powerful and. r/climbing. Rumoured to have been climbed long before this recent announcement, Raboutou continues to show himself as a leader in outdoor boulder development. On October 20, Aidan Roberts made the second ascent of "Alphane," a V17 established by Shawn Raboutou in Switzerland last spring. . 18th November, 2022. I think it's less about reaching the max of what humans can do, and more about the margins involved making it so unlikely to find individual V17 moves in nature. Since his 2018 ascent of Off the Wagon SDS Shawn has continued to cement his reputation by establishing many hard problems at 8C+ and above, including Big Z, Fuck the System and The Story. The problem, located on the back side of the Rocher Brûlé boulder, rose to prominence in January 2019 after Charles Albert made the first ascent of the line (barefoot) and proposed the grade of 9A/V17. Sign in. He is one of only a handful of climbers to send 9b. The Last Tepui: Una aventura cientifica y de escalada 02/05/2022. Like, finding a crimp line that goes at V17 is ridiculous, because a couple degrees of overhang or literal fractions of a millimeter of extra pad space makes or breaks the whole line. The month prior, he ticked the world’s hardest bouldering grade with his repeat of Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17. Working it alongside Raboutou were Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb. "Before that, Aidan Roberts and he both took a similar approach to repeat Alphane (V17/9A). Then sent within about a week or so. Rumoured to have been climbed long before this recent announcement, Raboutou continues to show himself as a leader in outdoor boulder development. The world’s third V17 boulder problem now has a second graduate, with the young Brit calling his send an ‘amazing experience. DWoods has one of the most impressive bouldering (multiple V17’s), comp (multiple world cups wins), and sport climbing (multiple hard 5. The world’s third V17 boulder problem now has a second graduate, with the young Brit calling his send an “amazing. It’s the first V17 in the United States, and only the second in the world after Nalle Hukkataival’s Burden of Dreams. A traversing line of heinous crimps and pinches, the problem was established by Czech climber Jana Švecová in June this year. This week's Friday Night Video takes us to Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, where Shawn Raboutou has announced his new mind-boggling difficult Font 9A: Megatron. Other career highlights include: multiple 9a+/9a ascents, V14 flash, multiple V15 ascents, 3 x IFSC. It's not that some hard climb is a v17 or isn't. . ) that every. The 100 Hardest Boulders In The World. Shawn Raboutou has been taking the climbing world by storm in recent years, defying gravity with his superhuman strength. Bolts would be better but maybe overkill. Eastern time, Shawn Raboutou reported the first ascent of “Alphane,” V17, in Fionnay, Switzerland. Video de Laura Rogora encadenando Erebor 9b/+ en Arco 09/10/2021. During my Swiss trip for the first RedBull Dual Ascent competition on the Verzasca dam, I had the opportunity to explore the astonishing bouldering area of C. Last fall, he made the third ascent of Alphane (V17). The screws had 3 inches of thread each so thats 654lbs i think it will hold for a while before that force deteriorates to my body weight. On April 6, 2022, Shawn Raboutou made the First Ascent of a V16 boulder named ‘ Alphane ‘. which has sp. Listen to the full episode 👉 you can check out our library of 150+ interviews with the biggest names. Oh No moments from the popular history animation series from Oversimplified. You can watch his FA of Unison V15 below. "I personally felt that 'Honey Badger' (V16) was more of a challenge for me. Ouça EP 142: Aidan Roberts — Training For Alphane V17, The Power Of Replicas, And Embracing Your Style e 233 episódios mais de The Nugget Climbing Podcast, de graça! Sem a necessidade de instalar ou se inscrever Climbing Gold — Hot Henry. Except Bosi didn’t actually go visit Finland (that land of fickle weather) until this week. Watch the fourth ascent of Alphane, which was first climbed in spring 2022 by Shawn Raboutou. This route might well have the best claim to V17 of recent proposals. So the simple session count is an imperfect measure of how much time/effort the boulder took, and how hard the boulder is. Will has confirmed the grade at 9A/V17. Everything about the problem is difficult. . It’s OK to Love Yourself If You Don’t Climb 5. Miscommunication is a huge reason for climbing accidents and there is a list of instances where someone was taken off belay because they thought they were rappelling while the intent was actually lowering. 15c’s: Perfecto Mundo in Margalef, Change in Flatanger, and Bibliographie in Céüse. Will Bosi, a 23-year-old from Edinburgh, nabbed the second repeat of “Alphane” in Ticino, Switzerland, this week. V17 is still a very ephemeral grade, as half of the four proposed V17 problems in the world have seen only one ascent, and a third, Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane, seems a likely contender for a downgrade. Belgium’s Simon Lorenzi, best known for making the first ascent of Soudain Seul—a. Bouldering is the discipline of climbing in which we have seen the most exponential growth in the past decade. Filmed in January 2023 over a three-week bouldering trip in Hueco Tanks, Texas, the 45-minute film features an all-women crew of strong double-digit Canadian and American boulderers. A post shared by Giuliano Cameroni (@giuliano_cameroni) Raboutou and Roberts on V16’s . Bosi sent the V17 boulder problem while working with Aidan Roberts, who accomplished the route’s first. “Apparently I need to start bouldering more,” she says. Yet. Although it is open-ended, the range of the scale so far is V0 - V17, meaning that the most difficult bouldering surface climbed so far was rated V17. Last month, he threw down three hard problems in Germany in a single session—a V14 flash, a V14 redpoint, and a V11 flash. Last month, he threw down three hard problems in Germany in a single session—a V14 flash, a V14 redpoint, and a V11 flash. He was the first to repeat Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17, and he’s put up several V16 first ascents, including the U. Who will be the next to repeat this climb that was first repeated by Will Bosi in 2023. With Send of ‘Alphane,’ Aidan Roberts Nabs First-Ever V17 Repeat. Shawn's ascent of Alphane is the first proposed 9a in Switz. The Erbesfield-Raboutou family is the climbing equivalent of The Incredibles. . In a stoke-filled Instagram post, Roberts described a joyful process for ticking off “ Alphane ,” established by Shawn Raboutou in Fionnay, Switzerland, in August. In 2019 Charles Albert claimed V17 for his FA of No Kpote Only, also in. Below that, it really depends if there is a compelling story behind the ascent. Aidan Roberts is a 23-year-old from the UK, who has emerged as one of the strongest boulderers in the world. r/climbing. 15b). This week was a BIG one on the climbing world, as Alphane has been repeated!“Alphane” is the world's third V17/9A boulder problem, according to American boulderer Shawn Raboutou. In 2022 alone, Bosi has climbed ten V14’s, eleven V15’s, two V16’s, and one V17. Will Bosi has dropped the video of his send of Alphane—and Lattice has dropped a longer video about Bosi’s training history. After his recent success in Switzerland on Alphane (V17/9A), Aidan Roberts has not wasted any time in getting to work on his next challenge. 205 votes, 51 comments. Or maybe Shawn and Aiden working together sped up their process (vs Nalle and Daniel trying their projects alone). Lowering is simpler and thus slightly safer. It was the culmination of a three month journey. But Bosi was reluctant to affirm the difficulty. K. ’s first two of the grade: Superpowers and Isles of Wonder Sit. Rock climbing without ropes, bouldering relies on specialized gear (pads and shoes) and techniques for training and protection closer to the ground. Alphane breaks down into a V14 followed by a V15, or just nine really hard moves in a row, says Raboutou. The world's third V17 boulder problem has now seen two repeats since Shawn Raboutou first established the line in August 2022. K. Last month, he threw down three hard problems in Germany in a single session—a V14 flash, a V14 redpoint, and a V11 flash. We caught up with Aidan to chat about it. Burden of Dreams is a five-move crimp line on an 45-degree overhanging face that resembles board climbing. 15’s) resumes of any climber. This week's Friday Night Video takes us to Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, where Shawn Raboutou has announced his new mind-boggling difficult Font 9A: Megatron. Share. I say "about five" because there are a couple of originally proposed V17s that have seen multiple ascents and now have some skepticism over the grades. Categories: News Tags. 4. Sean Bailey has climbed multiple V15 and V16 boulder problems including Box Therapy V16 in Rocky Mountain National Park and The Grand. On Wednesday, April 12, Will Bosi claimed the second ascent of Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dream, V17, calling it a huge step up from any other problem. Hestal. com. Video of Simon Lorenzi Sending Alphane V17 Just Dropped Gripped November 17, 2023. 6 sessions in Alphane might be the same number of quality tries as 10 in Burden (hypothetical numbers). 12 (Or Even 5. Gripped April 29, 2023. – Aidan Roberts Climbing Alphane, V17 in the Scarpa Instinct Lace – Nathaniel Coleman taking Olympic Silver with his Scarpa Dragos – Alex Puccio sending The Penrose Step (V14), as well as 3 other boulders of the same grade, in the Scarpa Instinct VSR. Though unverified by Climbing, rumors circulate that Raboutou has also sent the Megatron project, in Colorado, another presumed V17. 1 SONG • 5 MINUTES • OCT 20 2023. This is the fourth and fifth established V17 in the world next to Nalle Hukkataival’s Burden of Dreams, Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker, and Simon Lorenzi’s Soudain Seul. There is a stepdown of about 1. In October, Bosi also repeated Alphane V17. When asked about it, he simply replied, “I have another cool video. It features Roberts making the first ascents of Out of Shadows (v13), Back for Seconds. Back in Indian Creek feeling so strong and happy! (Excuse Station, 5. The block is located in Lappnor, Finland, and was established by Nalle Hukkataival after three years and over 4,000 attempts – an incredible demonstration of persistence and willpower. Will Bosi, Scottish crimpmonster ahoy, recently visited Chironico in Switzerland in the company of Aidan Roberts. Last month, he threw down three hard problems in Germany in a single session—a V14 flash, a V14 redpoint, and a V11 flash. K. Will Bosi, a 23-year-old from Edinburgh, nabbed the second repeat of “Alphane” in Ticino, Switzerland, this week. In a press release sent out earlier today, Will said: 'A. News. V17/9A is currently the hardest boulder grade in the world. Since Hukkataival ascent, several other V17s have been claimed. A post shared by William Bosi (@will_bosi) Dominik Bösch on Act of Grace and Graceland. People have to come into agreement on how much harder v17 should be in comparison to v16. 15c] with his FA of King Capella in Siurana, Spain. Now two new videos have dropped about him.